What It’s Like to Live in Málaga, Spain | Nikko’s Story

In this interview we meet Nikko, an American living in Málaga with her Spanish partner, their two sons, and their cat.

How long have you been in Málaga and why did you move there?

I’m originally from Houston, Texas, but went to college in Chicago. Then I lived in North Carolina, Florida and New York, before moving to Madrid in 2004.

The move to Málaga actually happened post-kids because one of my sons had major health issues.

The doctor suggested a more humid and less polluted environment as a potential boost for his immunity, so we moved.

My husband’s cousins lived in Málaga and we really enjoyed the city on our visits.

We made the official move here in 2017 and I’m happy to report we haven’t had any hospital stays since!

What are the best and worst things about living in Málaga? 

The temperate climate is great, but it’s hot and humid in the summer.

I think it’s imperative to have AC in the summer, and if your hair tends to frizz with humidity, watch out!

What are some of the pros and cons of living in the city?

Málaga is a great tourist destination because it’s a beach town, but it has a ton of culture as well.

I guess the main pros are how absolutely drenched in history Málaga is, plus how close it is to Granada, Córdoba, and Sevilla, plus so many beach towns along the coast (and less than 2.5 hours from Madrid on the AVE train).

The main con for me is that it is very much a car town, whereas Madrid is all about public transportation.

That said, taxis are cheap here and we can walk to the center of town or to the beach in less than 30 minutes. 

Do you rent or did you buy? If you bought, what was the process like and do you have any tips?

We went into it with a list of minimum requirements and tried to see as many places as possible to get a feel for the various neighborhoods we were interested in.

Most banks in Spain don't do pre-approved loans, so always read the fine print.

When we finally found an apartment we liked, the process was actually very fast.

 It took about a month for the paperwork to be done, although I think the average is more like three months.

Even though there is an official step, called tasación, where a trained inspector comes to view the apartment and give a recommended price range based on the condition and other similar apartments in the neighborhood, it's not the same as house inspections in the US, for example.

The inspection does not take into account how old the plumbing or wiring is.

We were told the wiring had been upgraded recently and that turned out to be a lie... Along with a few other issues, so we had to do a remodel to upgrade everything.

Had we known more when we were buying, we would have negotiated a lower price or possibly passed on the purchase, but we were first-time house buyers, so it was a good learning experience and we're happy with our apartment now.

Is Málaga safe? 

Málaga is tricky; it depends on the street.

There are streets that should be avoided at night, but they’re not usual routes for tourists so in general, it’s very safe here. 

Tell us about the cost of living.

Again, it depends on the neighborhood.

You can find a 2b,2b apartment for €800-1,500 rent per month, or €250k close to the center.

If you want a house or condo in a gated community with a pool, that’s achievable for a bit more, but you’ll need a car.

Gas and electricity in the European Union of course cost more here than in the US, but you can still find a pre-fixe lunch for €12 and a bottle of good wine for €3, so weigh the odds for yourself!

What kind of schools do your kids go to? What's your experience with the education system in Málaga?

As Andalusia is the largest Comunidad in Spain, it’s easy to see how the public schools and health system are stretched thin compared to Madrid.

Our kids go to school in public schools and we’ve had some issues with specific teachers, but I think you find that at any school.

We actually decided against sending them to “bilingual” schools because most of the program directors and teachers were not native English speakers, so my kids excel in their English classes and speak English with me, otherwise they do all their classes in Spanish.

One really cool thing is that they go on field trips to the Alhambra in Granada and Gibraltar and all these amazing places that are just a stone’s throw from Málaga.

We also pay around 120€ a year per kid to be in the public music conservatory and learn cello and piano along with music theory.

They spend 5 hours per week after school. 

What advice would you give someone who wants to relocate to, or retire in, Málaga?

The paperwork is never easy or fun, but Málaga is a great city to land in.

There are different neighborhoods and types of housing depending on your budget.

The public healthcare system, though slow, is adequate, and you can also get private health insurance for anywhere from €30-120 a month. 

What's your favorite restaurant?

Our favorite outing is to hit up any chiringuito on the beach and get sardines or octopus roasted over hot coals.

Seafood is usually served with large salt flakes, lemon, a drizzle of olive oil and some raw garlic chopped finely. 

What's your favorite nature or cultural activity?

The Jardín Botánico is super fun, but we tend to go to the Parque Oeste which is closer to us.

You can bring lettuce or frozen peas to feed the swans and turtles in the ponds, and they have some wild animals like emus and wallabies amidst cool metal sculptures. 

What's your favorite place in Málaga?

Call me a nerd, but I absolutely love the Museum of Málaga, which presents the history of Málaga via artwork and archeology ranging from artifacts discovered in and around Málaga, to more modern day exhibits by local artists.

It’s mind-blowing to see a Pheonician helmet from the 6th century that was discovered in the center of the city and to learn about the various periods and customs of the previous residents of the area.

They’re also about to reopen the rooftop terrace restaurant with great views of the city.